HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY, INDONESIA!

As Indonesia celebrates its 69th Independence Day today, the 17th of August, I thought I’d share the story, of their official emblem. Garuda, the anthropomorphic mythical figure is their National symbol/emblem, however there is a large difference between the mythical figure and what Indonesia uses as their emblem. The official emblem, Garuda, is embedded with a coat of arms containing the five principles of the state, PANCASILA, and its motto- BHINNEKA TUNGGAL IKA (Unity in Diversity). The Indonesia Garuda on the emblem is a Javanese Eagle and not the original mythical creature. The look on the face is stern and towards the side which emphasizes its strength as a national symbol. The bird carries the Motto of the Indonesian State and not the elixir of immortality as depicted in mythology. The Mottos is derived from an old, pre-Islamic, Javanese literature which can be translated into English as –“The essence of Buddha and Shiva are of difference substance, they are different indeed but how can they possibly be separated; Buddhism and Shivaism are different but one; they are two but one, because the truth cannot become two.” This depicts the Indonesian state standing together despite their many differences and also the fact that it’s a largely Muslim country. It is a reminder to be peaceful and to embrace, in kindness, their differences. The Garuda has a coat of arms embedded on its chest. These represent the five principles of the nation- Pancasila. The elements are- A Central Star- representing the oneness of God. The five tips are for the official religions of the country-Islam, Catholicism, Protestantism, Hinduism, and Buddhism. Now Confucianism has also been accepted. A Chain- the symbol of Humanitarianism, a just and civilized humanity. A Banyan Tree- this is to show national unity. A sacred tree with deep connections, that reach deep into the layers of Indonesian identity. In Bali, Banyan trees are thought to be living beings an each on has a shrine addressed to its soul. A Bull- represents the principle of democracy. A symbol of strength and also being a social animal. The Two Twigs of Rice and Cotton- these depict the principle of social justice that represent sustenance and livelihood. In a world where a majority of a multi-cultural states are destroyed by never ending conflicts about loyalty to ones state, religion and ethnicity, Indonesia stands as an island of peace. HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY, INDONESIA!

Whats in a Name (Balinese Name Traditions)

When i set foot in Bali for the first time, I was utterly confused as almost everyone I was introduced to seemed to have the same set of names. It took me some time to figure out the system and finally get the method or system of recognizing people's names. The naming system is unique and native to the island of Bali and to some extent its neighboring island of Lombok. Bali has a strong majority of Hindus and most of the names given are from Sanskrit origins though many still use the Balinese name. The names given to people are based on their order of birth, regardless of the gender of the person. Only four names are used in this system though they maybe some variations which may arise due to caste, traditions or even because of the difference in language between the regions in the north and the south. The most frequent and widely used four names in Bali are as follows- Wayan, Putu, Gede - The first Born Made, Kadek, Nengah - The second Born Nyoman, Komang - The third Born Ketut - The fourth Born. The Caste system although not as important as compared to the Indian system still has a role to play with regard to the naming system. It is said to have evolved from the Javanese region with influences from the Hindu-Buddhist sects. The naming system of the peasant farmers of Bali precedes the idea of caste. These people are largely a mix of 'native' Balinese and very early Hindu-Buddhist missionaries and their followers, who did not arrive in Bali with successive waves of Javanese nobles and military rulers. They form the caste level that would be called Sudra in India, that is, people outside the triwarna, or three colors (Wesya, overseers and minor aristocracy,Ksatria, nobles, kings and warriors and Bhramana, the highest caste comprising teachers, priests, writers and philosophers). This "farmer caste" comprises the vast freemasonry of the Balinese villages, as set out above, this caste uses names to denote birth position. It is an ingenious way for peasant farmers to keep track of inheritance questions, Wayan, for first born, Made for second, Nyoman for third and Ketut for fourth. The three castes, use a caste identifier as the first part of a name. SUDRA - There are no special names given to people from this caste and they use the names which denotes their birth. In local tradition they will only add 'I' (For males) and 'Ni' (For Females) in front of their names. WESYA - 'Gusti Bagus' (Male) and 'Gusti Ayu' (Female) KSATRIA - I Gusti Ngurah (Male) I Gusti Ayu (Female) Anak Agung (Male) Anak Ayu (Female) I Dewa/ Dewa Agung (Male) I Dewa Ayu/Desak (Female) The word Gusti refers to "Leader" where as Agung refers to "Great" or "Prominent". BRAHMANA - Ida Bagus (Male) Ida Ayu (Female)

AYAM CEMANI (COMPLETELY BLACK CHICKEN)

The 'Ayam Cemani' or the 'Completely Black Chicken' originated on an island called Java in Indonesia. A dutch breeder exported this breed to Europe for the first time in 1998. Currently they can be found in Netherlands, Germany, Slovakia and the Czech Republic. The Rooster of this species can weigh up to 2.5 Kilograms whereas the hens weigh in a little less. What is remarkable about this bird is not just the colour of it outside appearance, but everything except its blood (Dark dark red) is black. Its meat, its muscles and even its bones are black. They are considered to be an extremely expensive bird to breed and the hens lay about 80 single eggs per year. This 'Ayam Cemani' is associated with a lot of black magic and it is believed that through it, many diseases are curable.

UBUD- The place I call Home

Located 35kms from the International airport and 600mts above sea level, Ubud is a tranquil little town amidst paddy fields and ravines. The lush green area is inhabited by about 30,000 people and is considered to be the 'Art and Cultural Area of Bali'.

Being a little town on a hill, the temperatures here are relatively cooler than found across the coast. What makes Ubud special and different from the rest are its Rice Fields (pic), Traditional little villages, art and craft, spiritual activities (pic of a cremation),

temples, palaces, Cheap Luxurious accomodation (pic).

It has it all. It is also home to the famous Monkey Forest (pic).

Ubud is full of various restaurants and Warungs (Small eating joints) Mosaic being probably the most well known and Warung Murnis being the oldest. Almost all restaurants offer scintillating views and are constructed on various levels such as 'The Bridges' restaurant. Tourists come to Ubud mainly for the shopping experiences and cheaper prices. Being the cultural area of Bali the markets are full of shops and you can hear the toursits constantly bargaining away for various goods and handicrafts.

Many tourists dont really look beyond Kuta and Seminyak and that sort of makes me happy as it preserves the sanctity of this gorgeous little town. There are no McDonalds and KFCs or any other such fast food joints available in this area and I hope it stays that way in the coming years. People here are healthy and fit and very caring and religious in their daily activites. I feel absolutely blessed to call this place my current home. There is hardly any nightlife here and nothing usually stays open past 11pm preserving the way of the people. Because of its location, Ubud is central to many adventures and sightseeing starts. Activities around this area include Whitewater Rafting, The Safari Park, Jungle trekking, The Bird park, Botanical gardens and various vocational courses such as Cooking and Yoga. For most tourists Ubud, is the ideal place to start their adventures no matter which direction theyd like to begin with. For me, its just a place I call home and I hope it stays that way for years to come.

USAT (USS) Liberty- A must for Divers

Okay, so I haven't been there yet but it is now No.1 on my to do list in the next month or so. Just off the coast of Bali, not far from Amed, in a place called Tulamben, lies the wreck of a US Cargo ship called the Liberty.

The liberty was first launched by the US Navy during World War I as an animal and general cargo vessel. In 1933, the Liberty had a collision with another vessel in Ambrose Channel and was banked near 'West Bank Light'. After being repaired and ready, in 1940, during World War II, the Liberty was one of ten ships that was taken by the US Army for defensive services. In 1941, when the US entered the war, the Liberty was stationed in the Pacific. Come the beginning of 1942, and the ship was enroute from Australia to the Philippines carrying a cargo of railway parts and rubber. January 11th 1942 was the last day the ship could be of any service to the US. A Japanese submarine (I-166) launched a torpedo, damaging the ship just southwest of the Lombok Strait. US Destroyer Paul Jones and Dutch Destroyer Van Ghent tried pulling the ship in tow towards Singaraja, a Dutch Port and administrative center. However, the Liberty was taking in too much water and had to be beached in Tulamben (Eastern Coast of Bali)so that the cargo could be saved.

In 1963, Bali's most famous volcano erupted, causing tremors around the island that caused the Liberty to slip of the beach and land where she now rests, on a sand slope in about 30-100 feet of water in Tulamben. This has now become a famous diving spot for tourists in Bali.

However, it was something else that caught my mind when researching about this shipwreck and it was the photographic work of a Montreal based Director and photographer Benjamin Van Wong. He along with his crew took two models (Trained Divers) to do a photo shoot in the ship wreck and his work is phenomenal.

His images have made it absolutely necessary for me to make the trip and head down to catch a glimpse of the famous USS Liberty

History behind BARONG (The Barong Dance)

A lion like creature is often seen dancing around the streets of Bali(mainly ubud) amongst the gaze of curious tourists. The Barong Dance famous through out the island is a dance depicting the epic battle between good and evil. Barong (The name given to the lion like creature) is a part of Bali mythology and is depicted with a red head with thick white fur. Jewellery and mirrors often adorn the body of this mythical creature.

Barong is the King of spirits and the leader of good. His arch enemy is 'RANGDA', the demon queen and mother of all spirit guarders. According to local mythology, the good spirit is known as 'Banas Pati Raja', who is the fourth 'brother'or spirit child who is said to accompany a child throughout their life. Some people in other countries may know them 'Guardian Angels'. Barong is usually accompanied by two monkeys.

RANGDA (Pic left) as mentioned before is the demon queen and the opposite of Barong. She is said to be an incarnation of 'CALON ARANG', a legendary witch that caused havoc in ancient Java during the reign of "AIRLANGGA" in the 10th century. This story of Calon Arang and Airlangga is of a separate nature and wil be shared later. The Barong dance is said to originate in the Gianyar region (Ubud) where tourists can see this dance. The dance drama shows Barong responding to Rangda's use of magic to control and kill her and restore the balance. A priest usually throws holy water on the Barong as he dances through the streets. The drama opens with Barong in a peaceful atmosphere being teased by two monkeys. (pic)

. The second scene is usually known as the "KERIS DANCE" where the character of Rangda appears and causes havoc using black magic

on male dancers who represent the soldiers of Airlingga. They committ suicide by stabbing themselves with a 'kris' on the orders of Rangda. While this is in progress Barong and the priest use magic on these men which makes them invulnerable to these stabbings. The dance then ends with a face off between Barong and Rangda, where Rangda is made to flee and Barong appears victorius depicting good triumphing over evil. The lion barong is one of five traditional Barongs. In Bali each region of the island has its own protective spirit for its forests and lands. Each Barong for each region is modeled after a different animal. They are: Barong Ket: lion barong, the most common Barong, it is the symbol of a good spirit. Barong Landung: giant barong, the form is similar to Betawi Ondel-ondel Barong Celeng: boar barong Barong Macan: tiger barong Barong Naga: dragon (or serpent) barong

The Loyal & Trustworthy Citizen

This is a key observation I have noticed during my stay in Bali and it is something I have not seen anywhere else in my travels around the world, which may be in the minority when compared to other people but I would still like to share my views. They call this island a paradise but it is not only because of the panoramic views, or the rich culture or even the strong belief that the people have in their religion. Yes, Bali does offer something for everyone right from crystal blue waters to white sandy beaches, flora and fauna and even volcanos. Shopping for the ladies, forests and mountains and oceans for the enthusiastic adventurer are always present but there is something else which is often missed by all tourists and for me that is what highlights or is the biggest factor in calling this place-'Paradise', and that is the PEOPLE. Todays world is filled with Wars, Hatred, Petty Politics, Rape and Crimes of various nature, but here those words seem to be from a different world. I write this, sitting at my desk in the peaceful and tranquil location of Ubud, a sleepy little town which is fast becoming one of the top tourist destinations in the world. Many would debate me on the fact that my views and opinions may not be the same if I was in Kuta but that area has only changed due to the influx of the 'expats' and the rowdy tourists from across the waters that are ruining (if not ruined already) the ambience and image of the island. I have never seen such trust, loyalty and generosity that the people over here display day in and day out. You may be a complete stranger on a holiday on the island but the local people will go out of their way to make you feel at home, always greeting you with a friendly smile as you walk past. There are countless stories of support, generosity and helpfulness that tourists encounter personally everyday, that go unnoticed. I myself have had such experiences and witnessed such moments which I would like to share with you. One incident was when a bar owner (he has leased the management of the place to an expat) stopped to have a chat with one of the local staff members on how he felt about the place. He was a young boy of 21 and had been at the bar for three years. One could tell he was unhappy with the management. After hearing countless stories and incidents, he sort of promised him he would try and turn things around to the best of his abilities. The owner was moved by his loyalty and hard work at the bar, despite his unhappiness and suffering at the hands of the management. The owner offered to double his salary on the spot from his own pocket. What happened next was something I'll never forget. With folded hands and a bowed head, the boy politely refused the offer with the words in his local language,- "I will accept the offer when I see a change in the bar and this establishment is back to to being the best in the region". He said he was not working for the money but for the betterment of the place and his affection for the owner. That incident was an eye opener and a sort of turning point in my life. I also read of another incident where a female tourist was riding her two wheeler without knowing she had a flat tire (trust them not to notice such things), when an old lady from the side of the road screamed at her indicating that she had a flat tire. No sooner had she stopped her bike, than a young boy appeared out of no where and offered to help. Within minutes she was up and on her way. The charge- Nothing. It is such incidents and the love and generosity of the people that make this island a paradise to live on. One must however respect the local people and not take their simple and humble lifestyles for granted and as a weakness. To prove to you, the trust people have for one another, I have not seen a single household lock their doors or windows when they sleep at night. I have seen countless shops that are unmanned for hours because theft and petty crimes are unknown in these areas. Everyone is happy with what they have and are not greedy or looking for more. They all live in communities, equal to one another and help each other out. It is this sort of lifestyle and trust amongst the people that makes this an island of paradise and a true joy to be a part of.

GALUNGAN & KUNINGAN

One of the most religious and recurring festivals and ceremonies observed here in Bali is that of GALUNGAN and KUNINGAN. Galungan is the festival that celebrates the victory of 'Dharma over Adharma'. This is a period when all the ancestral spirits are said to descend on earth. These are the spirits of deceased relatives who have been cremated and they return to their former places of residence. The current occupants of their former homes are then entrusted with the responsibility of being hospitable through the means of Prayers and Offerings. The most significant of these hospitable acts, is the construction and arrangement of bamboo poles which are weighed down by the offerings which are placed at the top of the pole. These poles are known as 'Penjors'

and the picture (below) illustrates a street in a local village that is aligned with such penjors and a single penjor. It really is a remarkable sight to behold.

Galungan is a festival that is observed by the Balinese Hindus and the dates are decided by the 210 day Balinese Calendar. The festival stretches over a period of 10 to 11 days and these days have various names and activities that are to be performed. The festival ends with a day called 'KUNINGAN' which is the day the ancestral spirits return to heaven. Because the Balinese Calendar has 210 days there is the possibilty of having two of these festivals in the same solar year. Galungan itself lasts two days but preparations and activities start well before and run even after the two days. Bear with me as I try and take you through the various days of this special festival. THREE DAYS BEFORE - 'Penyekeban' - a day where bananas are cooked for the offerings TWO DAYS BEFORE - 'Penyajaan' - On this day fried rice cakes are prepared, also known as 'jaja' 1 DAY BEFORE- 'Penampahan' - (sorry vegetarians) but this is the day when pigs and turtles are slaughtered for the feasts. THE FIRST DAY OF GALUNGAN- This day is observed as a preparation for the following day. A great deal of preparations go into this day such as decorating of temples, offerings to Gods, and preparation of food. Men create the 'Penjors' and get the suckling roast pig ready, known as 'Babi Guling". THE SECOND DAY- this is the main day of the celebration and is filled with various different types of ceremonies. Each family will have a ceremony at their temple at home as well as the main village temple that they are a part off. 1 DAY AFTER - 'Manis Galungan' - which means 'Sweet Galungan'. This is the day of celebration and the entire family has loads of fun. Families visit beaches for a swim in the ocean or head out on picnics and various other such activities. Visiting of different members of the family happens on this day. 10 DAYS AFTER - 'Kuningan' - This is the day when the ancestral spirits return to the heavens. This day is filled with prayers, offerings and other such ceremonies. 11 DAYS AFTER - a day of rejoicing and fun for all. The image (above) depicts ladies of the villages all dressed up carrying offerings to the temples. This festival truly is a sight to behold and those visiting Bali should try and time their trips in order to catch a glimpse of this event.

AND IM BACK- Paradise Regained

Having left the island just about after my last post, I have been praying and searching for a way to get back. Even though my parents were here for a while, it was always a short holiday trip and they ended up returning to India a couple of years back which shut my Bali entry. However after slogging it out in Gurgaon for five years, I feel lucky and blessed to have been able to relocate myself to Bali and work here. Im extremely, extremely grateful to the person who has been kind and generous to let me help him with his business here. What once was Paradise Lost is now Paradise Regained. I have been in Bali for two weeks now and plan to establish myself here as fast as i can. So stay tuned for what i hope would be daily and weekly updates as I venture and explore this glorious island, soaking in the sights, sounds and various people I meet and my genereal thoughts on the experiences I face.